Hesteyri, located on the remote Hornstrandir Peninsula, is one of Iceland’s last truly untouched places—and an unforgettable destination for travelers seeking raw nature, history, and quiet solitude. Starting from Ísafjörður, the cultural and economic hub of the Westfjords, our boat journey into this pristine corner of Iceland reveals some of the most dramatic coastal scenery in the country.
Everything flows. That is the only certainty.
The Scenic Boat Ride to Hesteyri
Our adventure begins with a boat trip from Ísafjörður, navigating along steep cliffs, glacier-carved fjords, and remote shorelines. As we pass towering mountain slopes and hidden bays, the Drangajökull glacier, the only glacier in the Westfjords, comes into view. The 70-minute ride is accompanied by the cries of Arctic terns and puffins, making the journey a scenic and peaceful experience.
Arrival in Hesteyri: Where Time Stands Still
We reach Hesteyri, a secluded bay at the edge of the Hornstrandir Nature Reserve. Surrounded by towering peaks and the cold Atlantic, Hesteyri feels like a place frozen in time. Once home to a small fishing community, the village was abandoned in the mid-20th century after the decline of the herring industry. A former whaling station and later a herring factory, the site now stands as a quiet memorial to a vanished way of life.
A Walk Through History and Silence
Walking among the preserved houses of Hesteyri is like stepping into a bygone era. Some of the old buildings have been carefully restored and are now used as simple summer cottages. The silence is profound—broken only by the wind, seabirds, and the occasional bleating of sheep. With no roads, shops, or mobile signal, Hesteyri offers a rare kind of retreat that is both humbling and inspiring.
A Pause in the Doctor’s House
Our visit ends at the former doctor’s residence—now a welcoming guesthouse—where we are offered tea, coffee, and light refreshments. Sitting by the window, looking out over the fjord, we take in the stillness and the sheer beauty of our surroundings before returning to Ísafjörður by boat.
Practical Tips for Visiting Hesteyri and Ísafjörður
Getting there:
Regular boat tours to Hesteyri depart from the harbor in Ísafjörður during the summer months (June–August). Tour operators like Borea Adventures offer day trips and guided hikes in the Hornstrandir Nature Reserve.
Accommodation in Ísafjörður (budget options):
Guesthouse Ísafjörður: Central and affordable with shared kitchen
Gamla Guesthouse: Cozy rooms in a historic building
Tjöruhúsið Guesthouse: Budget-friendly and near the harbor
Where to eat cheap in Ísafjörður:
Hamraborg: Simple but tasty fast food and Icelandic burgers
Heimabyggð: Local café with soup, baked goods, and vegetarian options
Húsið: Offers lunch specials at a reasonable price
Tip: If you’re planning to explore Hornstrandir for more than a day, bring warm layers, waterproof gear, and enough snacks—services are extremely limited in the reserve.
